Making the PCB
- transparent paper (for the exposuremaske)
- 6 x 10 cm photopositve material for the PCB
(I'm strongly suggest to by more material, as we need. The first try
is mostly a mistake - this was my experience.)
- a UV-lamp (a normal luminescence lamp will do it also)
- developer for the exposed PCB: NaOH
- caustics: FeCl3 or other
The exposuremask must be printed to the transparent paper.
That may be done with a normal black-white printer.
The best results you will have with a laser-printer.
Please don't download and print this picture. I've made it smaller for the
webpage. Please use the picture from the archive, which you may download
If you want to use a inkjet-printer, it is possible, that the black color is
not real black. Than it may be, that there are some difficulties (see
below). You can also make a fotocopy with maximum contrast. The result
is like a printout with a laser-printer.
The #?.ps - files you can print out using "ghostscript" or
"post", if you have no postscript-printer. Then all will be
printed in the right messures.
The #?.gif - files you can print out with any graphic print program
("graphic-publisher" of "Turboprint", or
"Studio" or other). A DTP-Program is also a good coice. You
must experiment a little up to the measure-lines matchs the lenght that
shown. A small difference of +/- 1mm doesn't matter.
NB.: With Multiview you can view the iff-pictures. Printing with
Multiview is not so good.
I've made the PCB with ProDraw3. If you have this program, I can
mail you the file. With this the printig is
easier and accurate.
If you can't make PCB's by yourself, I can help you. But I'm not a
electronic concern ... ;-)
I recommend you very much also printing out the TP3Plan.gif and the
TP3Comp.gif. So you can always see what you do.
(Like above: Don't try to download and use these pictures. Please use the pictures
from the downloaded archive.)
The plan is a mixed form for people, are not so familiary with circuitry.
Prepare the developer and the corrosivebath.
!!!! CAUTION !!!
The developer and the corrosive are very corrodive.
!!!! USE GLOVES !!!
NaOH : 50g to 1l water
FeCl³: 400g to 1l water
Lay the printed mask down the PCB-material. (remove the protectionsfoil
before). Use the mirrored one with the printcoulor to the PCB. That
means, that it is now unmirrored. Press it down with a glasplate. Than
lay it under the UV-lamp.
exposure time with UV-lamp : 3 min
exposure time with flourecent-lamp : 7-8 min
(a small distance between lamp and PCB is necessary)
After the exposure put the PCB immediately in the developer. In a short
time you will now see appearing the line wires. When all spaces between
the line wires are free, immediately take the PCB out of the developer
and bring it under water. Then let it dry accurate. Don't use a cloth,
it wipes the line wires.
NB.: I tryed to make the mask with a inkjet-printer. The ink isn't real
black. So the UV-light wasn't exact shielded at the black lines. So the
developer also destroyed the lines and the PCB was lost.
So I experimented a little. My result:
Make a low concentrated developerbath : 20g NaOH to 1l water
Print the exposure mask at normal Inkjet-paper.
Exposure like above explained.
Lay exposured PCB with the metal side to top in the developer
bath. Wait so long up to all lines are clearly to see. (the color
of the parts, that will later cauterized changed to blue.) Then
immediately put it under flowing water.
You can put the PCB again in the developer if it is not enough
developed, and than again under the water .... and so on. You can
also hold down the PCB partially in the developer bath.
Be careful ! In the other way you will lose your work.
But this is only for that reason if you use a inkjet-printer.
If the PCB is dry, put it in the corrosivebath . The time it takes to
cauterize is between 10 min and some hours. Look often at the PCB in
the corrosivebath. If you heat up the corrosivebath to 60°C the
cauterize-time will be very short. Often move your PCB in the bath,
that will also minimize the time.
If all line wires clean cauterized, put the PCB under water to wash up
all corrodive thorough.
- use a drill 0,8 - 1,0 mm thick.
Print out the TPP3Components.iff. So you can see in the right form, how
to build in the components.
Also at the PCB you can see how all components shall be connected. Also
you will see the connections to the PCB. (MIDI-Output, and serial
Use a electric soldering iron with no more than 20 W.
Look accurate before soldering the IC.
I'm very recommend to use sockets for the IC's. They are very cheap,
and if anything is wrong, you must not dissolder the IC - this is very
1 =| O |= 16
=| 4052 |= Top View
8 =|_________|= 9
1 =| O |= 24
=| MAX |= Top View
=| 238 |=
12 =|_________|= 13
Use only so much solder tin as necessary. Use only solder tin for
There a long jumper to sold in. At the PCB these are marked with
Don't forget these! I recommend to use a isulated wire.
For the MIDI-Ports use normal DIN-sockets:
View from the back (soldering) - side:
| 2 |
| 5 4 |
| 3 1 |
| S |
S = Shield of the Plug (must be connected to Pin 2)
You also can see this at the plan.
Most there are numbers of the pins at the DIN-sockets. Look accurate
For the connection to the DIN-sockets use soldering pins, or sold in
The numbers of the pin-connections of the serial-port-plug you see at
the top of the PCB.
3 2 1/7 4 9 20
CONNECT ONLY THIS PINS. THE PIN 1 + PIN 7 MUST BE CONNECTED AT THE
DON'T CONNECT THE SHIELD AND PIN 1 + 7.
CONNECT THE SHIELD SEPARATLY BESIDE THE PINS.
LOOK VERY ACCURATE AND COUNT THE PINS FOR SECURITY THREE TIMES ORE MORE.
MOST FOR PIN 9 and 10.
THE REASON IS:
PIN 9 HAVE +12V
PIN 10 HAVE -12V !
IT WILL BE VERY DANGEROS IF YOU EXCHANGE THESE TWO PINS. THE IC's
WILL BE DAMAGED.
At last build the PCB and the DIN-sockets in the metal case. For the
connection to the serial-port I made a short cable with the female plug
at the one side.
Before you connect or disconnet to your AMIGA:
!!!!! S W I T C H O F T H E P O W E R !!!!!
IT IS VERY EASY TO DESTROY THE PORT IC's, WHEN YOU MAKE ANY
CONNECTION OR DISCONNECTION AT YOUR AMIGA, IF THE POWER IS ON.
The time you loose with a new boot is very good invested in the life of
BE WARNED ....
And now good luck and many fun with the Triple-Play-MIDI-Interface .... :-))